It's a well-worn travel cliche, but Montevideo, Uruguay really is a hidden gem.
Although it's the capital of one of Latin America's most progressive countries (marijuana, abortion, and marriage equality have all been legal for a while, college is free, and there is universal health care), Montevideo has a reputation for being on the sleepier side. The quiet capital city tends to get bypassed by travelers visiting its jazzier neighbors like Buenos Aires and Punta del Este. Montevideo attracts only a handful of visitors, even during its annual Carnival celebration — a colorful 40-night extravaganza that is the longest in the world.
Don't let the lack of tourism fool you, urges María Eugenia Rodriguez, Howdy.com's Uruguay Community Admin.
"Montevideo is small in size but big on charm," Rodriguez says. "The city mixes urbanism, beaches, and countryside, and offers a variety of experiences — from lively beaches to historic architecture."
Where to stay: Pocitos
Rodriguez recommends staying in Montevideo's stylish coastal barrio, Pocitos.
"Pocitos is a popular neighborhood with a beautiful beach and vibrant atmosphere," she says. "It's a great choice for visitors who want to be close to the sea and cafes, restaurants, and shops."
Consider booking a room at one of these excellent Pocitos hotels:
- Hotel Costanero Montevideo - A luxury beachfront hotel with superb ocean views.
- Hyatt Centric Montevideo - Another beachside option decorated with installations from local artists.
- Cottage Puerto Buceo - An upscale, eco-minded option with a rooftop terrace and bicycles for rent.
Chemex and carrot cake at La Farmacia Cafe
Bypass your hotel's breakfast spread and head to La Farmacia Cafe, a pharmacy-turned-cafe in Montevideo’s historic Ciudad Vieja (Old Town). At this light-filled, nostalgic spot, agile baristas work beneath an overhead mirror so you can watch as cappuccinos and Chemex pour-overs are expertly prepared.
Order your beverage of choice with a thick slice of coffee or carrot cake. For something more substantial, try the crunchy avocado toast with sprouts on freshly baked bread. Grab a stool by the window so you can watch Ciudad Vieja amble by.
Cobblestone streets and neocolonial mansions in Ciudad Vieja
Spend the morning exploring Ciudad Vieja, which Rodriguez describes as "stepping into a storybook." In the picturesque Old Town, you'll find cobblestone alleyways, endless museums, and more art-deco architecture than any city other than New York.
An ideal starting point is Plaza Independencia, a bustling main square commemorating independence hero José Artigas. The center of the square is dominated by a subterranean mausoleum housing Artigas's remains. The plaza is surrounded by several historic structures, including the remains of the city walls and town gate and the 26-story, art deco-style Palacio Salvo.
Just off the plaza is the Teatro Solís, an 1856 structure famed for its fine acoustics. Guided tours of the impressive neoclassical theater offer insights into its history, architecture, and behind-the-scenes operations; call ahead to arrange one in English.
Teatro Solís | Source: Teatro Solís
Locally inspired bistro fare at Jacinto
For lunch, head to Ciudad Vieja's critically acclaimed Jacinto restaurant, which sits on a cobblestone street just off Zabala Square. The charismatic all-day bistro was spotlighted in an episode of Anthony Bourdain's Parts Unknown.
Museo Andes 1972
A quick stroll from the restaurant will take you to Museo Andes 1972. The museum tells the harrowing tale of Uruguayan Air Force Flight 571, an airplane carrying a Uruguayan amateur rugby team that crashed in the Andes Mountains. Of the 45 people aboard the plane, 16 survived the ordeal by turning to cannibalism.
The disaster — made famous in the book Alive! and Netflix movie Society of the Snow — had a dramatic effect on the nation's psyche. The museum is straightforward, unflinching, and curated with the help of the survivors and their families.
Parrilla at La Perdiz
La Perdiz | Source: La Perdiz
Within the last decade, Montevideo has welcomed a growing number of trendy, small-plate-focused, vegetarian-friendly eateries. But make no mistake: Uruguay is a meat-loving country, where cows outnumber people three to one and there are more parrilla steakhouses than any other type of restaurant.
La Perdiz — an upscale eatery in posh Punta Carretas — stands out in a country packed with parrillas, says Rodriguez
"The meat quality is top-notch, and the cozy vibes seal the deal," Rodriguez adds.
Try the pinaña (rump) or bife ancho (rib-eye) steaks with a glass of heavy, full-bodied Uruguayan Tannat wine. If you're not in the mood for meat, you're in the wrong country — but the kitchen does make an exquisite seafood risotto.
Tango show and dancing at Baar Fun Fun and Lotus Club
Bar Fun Fun | Source: Bar Fun Fun
For a city so chill, Montevideo parties. Montevideoans will start a typical night out with dinner at 10 p.m., progress to drinks at a bar around midnight, and hit the club for dancing around 3 a.m.
Think you can party like a Montevideoan? Kick off the night at Bar Fun Fun, a historic cabaret famous for its mesmerizing tango shows. (FYI: Buenos Aires gets all the credit for tango, but the dance was invented between the ports of both cities.) The unassuming spot was a favorite haunt of tango-legend Carlos Gardel. Be sure to try uvita, the famous raisin-flavored liquor invented, produced, and bottled onsite.
After the show and a shot or two of uvita, you can keep the party going at the across-town Lotus Club. Widely considered the city's best, upscale, disco ball-decorated club draws well-heeled guests with house and electronic music.
Day 2: The Rambla and Parque Rodó
Asian and Southern-style smoked eats at Sometimes Sunday
Enjoy your second breakfast in Montevideo at Sometimes Sunday, a local institution dishing out fusion cuisine inspired by Asia and the American South. Take a seat in the small, sunny space and chow down on menu highlights like kimchi pancakes, roasted grapefruit with sugar and chile, and a succulent 12-hour-smoked pulled pork sandwich. If you're nursing a uvita hangover, order one of the eatery's top-notch bloody marys.
Ride down the Rambla
If there is a single, quintessential activity that defines Montevideo, it is hanging out by the rambla (boardwalk).
The Rambla de Montevideo (Montevideo Rambla) is a coastal avenue that extends from downtown to the far eastern suburbs, snaking past 13-plus miles of spectacular seafront. On sandy beaches, beaches, and grassy knolls along this riverwalk, you'll find locals posted up and partaking in the national drug of choice: mate (pronounced mah-tay), a caffeinated herbal tea as ubiquitous in Uruguay as iced coffees are in the US.
The Rambla can be explored by foot or bicycle. Many hotels offer bike rentals, but if yours does not, Orange Bike offers full-day rentals with helmet and bike lock included.
Chivito at Expreso Pocitos
You've been in Montevideo for over 24 hours — it's high time you've tried its beloved national sandwich, chivito. Comprising steak, ham, bacon, cheese, hard-boiled egg, mayonnaise, and various garnishes, the chivito was described by Bourdain as a "terror-inspiring heap of protein" and is usually shared between multiple diners.
You can try to tackle this meat mountain at Expreso Pocito near Pocitos Beach. A Montevideo mainstay since 1910, the diner-style eatery has one of the best chivitos in town.
Art and nature in Parque Rodo
After a quick post-chivito nap at your hotel, venture to Parque Rodo, a leafy neighborhood with a sprawling park of the same name. The middle of Parque Rodo (the park) is where you'll find one of the city's best museums, Museo Nacional de Artes Visuales (MNAV). The museum houses well-known paintings by Picasso, Klee, and Goya alongside pieces by Uruguayan artists like Blanes and Figari. In addition to the large permanent collection, MNAV often showcases meticulously curated temporary exhibits of up-and-coming local artists.
Do as the Montevideans do and pop into the museum's cafe, The Lab Coffee Roasters, for a Uruguayan-style merienda (afternoon snack). One of six locations in the city, the museum outpost serves up excellent cortados and yummy cinnamon rolls.
Consider taking your goodies para llevar (to-go) and eating in the lush surrounding Rodo Park. The park — which Rodriguez calls her favorite "nature escape" — features a lake and an old-fashioned amusement park.
"It's a huge park with a lake, walking paths, and green spots," Rodriguez said. "It's my go-to for picnics and catching cool events."
Small plates and sashimi at Café Misterio
For dinner, Uber up to Café Misterio in the upscale barrio of Carrasco. At the iconic restaurant, you'll encounter a lively crowd, many of whom have been coming since the restaurant opened over 25 years ago. Take a seat in the dimly lit dining room to feast on creative small plates — like braised lamb empanadas, grilled squid with smoked paprika, and salmon ceviche — and some of the best sashimi in the city.
Craft beer at Malafama
Cap off the night with a foray into Uruguay's blossoming craft beer scene at Malafama. The country’s fourth-largest craft brewery, Malafama, is set in a cavernous warehouse and offers a solid selection of house-brewed IPAs, stouts, and lagers, along with selections from other Uruguayan breweries. Should you get peckish, the popcorn is free and the brick-oven pizza is delicious.
Day 3: Punta del Este
Punta del Este road trip
Today, go for a quick pastry and coffee at your hotel breakfast bar to make plenty of time to hit Punta del Este. A popular beach destination, the swanky resort town sits about two hours outside Montevideo. Comfortable, air-conditioned buses leave the Montevideo airport every hour; tickets are around USD 20 one way. Alternatively, you can inquire with your hotel if they offer a transfer van service — this shouldn't cost you much more than USD 50.
Beach hopping
Once in Punta del Este, make a beeline for the beach. There's no shortage to choose from; popular options include the surfer-beloved Montoya, the sunbather-packed Bikini Beach, and the clothing-optional Playa Chihuahua.
For an essential Uruguayan experience, be sure to end up in Playa Brava (Brava Beach). This eastern stretch of sand is where you'll find the town's iconic La Mano (The Hand) sculpture, created in the '80s by Chilean artist Mario Irrazábal. The sculpture serves as a drowning warning for those venturing into the high waves behind it. Even if you aren't into that sort of thing, don't miss the photo opportunity: Getting a photo climbing on this sculpture tops the unofficial Uruguay travel bucket list.
Calamari and cocktails at I'marangatú
I'marangatú | Source: I'marangatú
For lunch, cross the peninsula to I'marangatú, a beachfront restaurant on Playa Mansa. Service from the staff of impeccably tanned twentysomethings can be spotty, but the views overlooking the pristine white sands and calm, lake-like water of Playa Mansa are worth it. Order the calamari and a couple of fruity cocktails and stay a while. Note that this place is popular around lunchtime and in the evenings around sunset; play it safe by reserving a table in advance during the busy months of January and February.
Grab a souvenir on Avenida Gorlero
Before boarding the bus or van back to Montevideo, stretch your legs with some window shopping down Avenida Gorlero, Punta's glamorous main commercial strip. The thoroughfare runs northeast-southwest through the heart of the peninsula and is lined with cafes, boutiques, and casinos. The avenue passes through the Feria de Artesanos (Artisan Market), where you can sift through handmade jewelry and other handicrafts for a souvenir.
Farewell dinner at Francis
After catching a nap and a shower at your hotel, it's time for your farewell dinner. Rodriguez recommends Francis, an elegant restaurant in the Punta Carretas neighborhood.
"Francis is my spot for sophisticated dining," Rodriguez said. "They nail creative dishes and offer an excellent wine selection."
Farewell dessert and drinks at El Mingus
Top off your trip to Montevideo with a drink at El Mingus. The intimate, inviting jazz club hosts live performances nearly every night and serves up a delicious crema catalana (Spanish crème brûlée) to accompany your farewell beverage. Try the house specialty: grappamiel, a beloved Uruguayan liquor made from grappa and honey.
Practical information
When to go
Rodriguez recommends visiting Montevideo during the Southern Hemisphere's spring (September to November) and summer (December to March).
"During this period, temperatures range from mild to warm," Rodriguez says. "It’s also a great opportunity to explore our stunning beaches."
If you plan on the Punta del Este side trip, it's best to visit Uruguay during the warmer months. Punta tends to shutter during the colder months and come alive during the summer.
Getting around
For longer journeys, you'll find that Ubers are plentiful, as are safe and affordable taxis, she adds.
Carrasco International Airport is a small, single-terminal airport serving as the primary hub for flights to and from Uruguay. The easiest, quickest way to travel to and from the airport is to Uber. An Uber between the airport and downtown should cost around 770 pesos (18.21 USD).
Using money
The official currency of Uruguay is the Uruguayan peso (UYU). It is denoted using the symbol “$;” US dollars are distinguished with "U" or "US." For example, $10 denotes 10 Uruguayan pesos; US$10 and U$10 denotes 10 US dollars.
At the time of writing, the peso traded at approximately 40 pesos to the US dollar.
Many tourist-oriented businesses in Montevideo and Punta del Este widely accept US dollars and credit cards. ATMs dispense both Uruguayan pesos and US dollars.
What to eat
Asado - Uruguay's take on barbecue. Asado can contain virtually any cuts of meat imaginable; in Uruguay, one of the most beloved additions is choto, or grilled intestine.
Chivito - Uruguay's national dish, a colossal sandwich filled with beef, ham, cheese, fried egg, tomato, and mayonnaise, often served with fries.
Pizza al estilo uruguayo - Uruguayan-style pizza, also called "pizza de bar." It's usually rectangle-shaped with a thick crush.
Mate - A ubiquitous caffeinated tea made from yerba mate leaves. It's traditionally consumed by groups of friends and family and passed around to each person, Rodriguez says.
Grappamiel - A traditional liquor made from grappa — a fragrant, grape-based pomace brandy — and honey.
Speaking the language
Montevideo has fewer English speakers than other major Latin American destinations. An estimated 5 to 10 percent of Uruguay's native-born population speak English as a second language, with the bulk of these concentrated in Montevideo.
Bo - Used similarly to "hey" when addressing someone.
Re - This is used as a prefix to mean "very." For example: "relinda" ("very pretty") or "reloco" ("very crazy").
Salado - Literally "salty." Depending on the context, salado can refer to something difficult, amazing, or huge.
Ta - A filler word or an interjection used similarly to "okay" or "sure." For example: "¿Ta?" ("Do you agree?") "Ta, ta" ("Okay, okay!"), or "¡TA!" ("Stop!")
Botija/Guri - Slang for a child or teenager. Both terms can be used on adults, either sarcastically or endearingly.
Garra Charrúa - An expression describing courage or bravery, mainly used in soccer
matches. It pays homage to the Charrúa Indigenous tribe, and can be translated as "charrúan tenacity."
